One of the most popular resort areas in Europe is the heavenly Algarve province in Portugal. The sunny Atlantic coastline seems like another world - part Mediterranean and part North African. The towns are in a time warp, using agricultural methods that haven't changed in centuries to grow oranges, grapes, olives, almonds, figs, and carobs. While the tourism industry keeps airlines on strict timetables and beautiful resort hotels dot the beaches, the native Algarveans leisurely stroll through life, worrying about little, relaxing a lot, and rushing only to be friendly and hospitable ... More
One of the most popular resort areas in Europe is the heavenly Algarve province in Portugal. The sunny Atlantic coastline seems like another world - part Mediterranean and part North African. The towns are in a time warp, using agricultural methods that haven't changed in centuries to grow oranges, grapes, olives, almonds, figs, and carobs. While the tourism industry keeps airlines on strict timetables and beautiful resort hotels dot the beaches, the native Algarveans leisurely stroll through life, worrying about little, relaxing a lot, and rushing only to be friendly and hospitable to their neighbors. Urgency is an unfamiliar notion to Algarveans, and that makes the gorgeous beaches and quaint towns even more refreshing.
The Algarve is steeped in history, too. From the original Celt-Iberean tribes, to the Romans and Visigoths, the southernmost province in Portugal has dealt with conquest, but none so important as the Islamic Moors in the 8th century. The Islamic Moors ruled for more than 500 years, and their impact on Algarvean culture can still be seen, with architecture like lattice chimneys and Moorish doorways in towns with names such as Al-Gharb ("the West"). Most notable are the azulejos, painted ceramic tiles that cover the walls, floors, and ceilings of Portuguese buildings In the 15th century, after Portugal was back under Christian control, the Algarve was the center of the Age of Exploration, the base for such legends as Henry the Navigator and Vasco de Gama. Nowadays, the explorers are tourists, who look no further than the golden shores and untouched lagoons of Algarve itself!
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In the Northwest part of the Algarve is the Serra De Monchique, a volcanic mountain range that is beautiful in its vegetation and panoramic views all the way to the sea. The small town of Monchique is the best starting place for mountain excursions, while the more westerly town of Aljezur and its Moorish castle provide access (by car) to the untamed and isolated beaches along the west coast. On the southwest cape is what the Romans called Promontorium Sacrum (Sacred Promontory), now known as Cabo de São Vicente, which used to be thought of as the end of the world. Its cliffs still provide awesome views of the Atlantic, and now have the most powerful lighthouse in Europe. On the southern coast are many lovely fishing towns such as Alvor, Carvoeiro, and Albufeira that are the most popular destinations for vacationers, with fine beaches and intriguing historical buildings. In contrast to this are enormous, modern beach resorts like Quarteira and the Vilamoura complex, complete with a huge marina and 3 golf courses. There are a few other noteworthy towns in Algarve, like Silves, which is known for growing citrus fruits, and Loulé, a flourishing artisan town who specialize in crafts. The 4 largest cities in the province, however, each have distinct traits worth seeing:
Faro: The capital of Algarve since 1756, this prosperous little city is unfortunately overlooked by most tourists, as they fly into the airport and immediately head out to the resort towns. There is a lot to see in the old town, however, which is surrounded by ancient walls and entered through the Arco da Vila, a huge arch built on the site of a medieval castle. The Renaissance Sé, which was the first Christian church built in the city, is the site of an old mosque and was sacred to the Romans, Visigoths, and Moors throughout history. The city has some fine museums, such as the Museu Municipal, which boasts a Roman floor mosaic from the 3rd century, and the Museu Etnográfico, which provides insight to Algarve's traditional way of life with ceramics, looms, and farming techniques. The more cosmopolitan center of Faro is the Rua de Santo António, lined with shops, stylish bars, and 18th-century architecture. The Baroque cathedral Igreja do Carmo has decorations covered in Brazilian gold leaf. Another popular site is the spooky Capela dos Ossos (Chapel of Bones), where the walls are lined with the skulls and bones of 1,245 former monks.
Portimão: This is the 2nd largest commercial city and one of the most important ports in Algarve, even though it was mostly destroyed in 1755 by an earthquake. The fish canning industry brought a lot a development in the 19th century, and now there are great fishing activities in the city, alongside open-air cafés on the river. Rua do Comércio is a pedestrian shopping street that starts from the old market square and ends with acres of stalls set up near the train station. The Praça Teixeira Gomes isa local meeting place with cafés on the waterfront, and the Portimão Quayside docks all the sightseeing and fishing boats.
Sagres: The most southwesterly point of Europe is inside the Costa Vicentina Natural Park, which harbors over 200 species of birds, including Bonneli eagles and white storks. The real attraction to the little port town, however, is the many untainted beaches that dot the coastline and the high sea cliffs where fearless fishermen test their fate every morning. Nearby Sagres was Vilo Do Infante, where Henry the Navigator set up his "school of navigation" in 1420.
Lagos: On the southern coast, this city is the biggest tourist destination and also the port where Henry the Navigator actually built his ships and departed on his voyages. Besides the pleasant boat tours that leave from here, many tourists come for the Meia Praia beaches to the east and the secluded Praia do Pinhao beaches to the west. The town has interestingsites such as a well-preserved 8th-century Moorish section near the monument to navigator Gil Earnes and the site of the first slave market in Europe, the mercado dos escravos under the arcades on Rua da Senhora dea Graça.
A bunch of low mountain ranges separate the coastal area from northern Portugal, and the Guadiana River runs along the eastern border with Spain. To the west and south is the Atlantic Ocean. The southern coastline is but 95 miles long, and inland is at most 30 miles wide, housing about 350,000 people altogether, mostly on the red sandstone coastal belt. To the east of Faro are low-lying flatlands, which contain one of the most important wetlands in Europe, Ria Formosa. Inland are peaceful hillside villages surrounded by vineyards, orange and lemon groves, and green orchards.
The Algarve has some of the best year-round weather in Europe. In the summer, fresh Atlantic breezes cool down the heat, while balmy African air jets warm the winter months, when it rarely falls below 50º. There is plenty of sunshine, and rain is rare.
Spring average 62º, with 1.03 inches of rain per month
Summer average 72º, with 0.3 inches of rain per month
Fall average 63º, with 2.6 inches of rain per month
Winter average 55º, with 2.8 inches of rain per month
The hottest, driest time of the year, July and August, coincides with the largest influx of tourists, as most everyone in Europe is on vacation. Nice alternatives are the warm spring and autumn months, or the festival season in June. The only really quiet time for tourism is the middle of winter. Easter Season brings Carnival and huge parties in all of Portugal, also a popular time to visit.
Two million people visit Algarve each year for 2 reasons: the beaches and the weather. With 300 days of sunshine a year, and so many beautiful untouched beaches, it's no wonder that Algarve is Portugal's top destination.
Unlike some resort areas around the world, prices here are not out of control, and the natural splendor of the landscape has not been spoiled.
Every type of water sport imaginable is available here, but its real reputation is for Europe's top golf courses, and Portugal is also known as the sardine capital of the world.
Golf: To visit Algarve and not go golfing is unthinkable! With over 25 premier golf courses in the area, every golfing need is met, and every skill level accommodated. The Portuguese Open has been hosted in the past few years at Penina, Vila Sol, and São Lorenzo, which are considered 3 of Europe's top courses. Penina, near Portimão, is the Algarve's oldest course. The Vilamoura Complex has 3 extremely difficult but beautifully landscaped courses, while the Quinta Do Lago is a huge 36-hole course and leisure complex in itself, situated next to the Ria Formosa wetlands preserve. The best course may be São Lorenzo, rated by Golf World magazine as the No. 2 course in continental Europe!
Sports: As the weather in the Algarve is beautiful year-round, outdoor sporting facilities are abundant and of high quality. Tennis is very popular, and courts can be rented out at hourly rates almost anywhere in the region; some even provide one-to-one coaching. Horseback riding and pony trekking are also quite popular, with the environment very conducive to scenic rides. Of course, water sports are huge - snorkeling, windsurfing, fishing, surfing, jet-skiing - you name it!
Aquabus: From Lagos to Salema there runs a daily submarine with large glass panes on the hull, allowing passengers to view the mesmerizing marine life, taking off from the bustling Marina de Lagos.
Safaris: In Albufeira there are a number of exciting excursions such as the Jeep Safari, which visits tiny traditional villages and unblemished Algarve scenery. Zebra Safari offers numerous adventure, nature, photo, and scenic programs throughout the province.
Water Parks: The Algarve may be on the coast, and awash in beaches and marinas, but there are also some great water parks to experience, such as The Big One in Alcantarilha, Europe's largest open-air park. Specially designed for kids, the AtlanticPark features twisting slides, a diving pool, and a daily variety show, while the ZooMarine is filled with dolphins, seals, sea lions, sharks, and other marine wildlife, as well as rides.
Castelo de Silves: Though there are numerous castles worth visiting in Algarve, Silves Castle is particularly striking due its historical significance and imposing presence. Al-Mu'tamid lived here in the Palace of Verandahs in 1053, and many a battle was fought here in the 12th and 13th centuries. The town's water supply is now held here, in the huge, Moorish Cisterna da Moura Encantada (Cistern of the Enchanted Moorish Girl). There are also fantastic views of the city and the surrounding area.
Beach: What do we really need to say? Pick a beach (there's a million). Apply sunscreen. Relax in the sand. Rinse and repeat.
When vacationing in the Algarve, dining out is an awe-inspiring event altogether. A great number of restaurants and cafés have opened in the Algarve recently, and new ones spring up all the time, which keeps the prices reasonable, the standards high, and the variety endless. The top restaurants usually specialize in international cuisine, but the great majority of ordinary eateries serve Portuguese dishes and Algarve specialties. Fresh seafood (caught and served on the same day), and homegrown fruits and vegetables are plentiful, as are the favorite grilled sardines. Arroz de marisco (seafood rice) and ameijoas na cataplana (steamed clams with spicy sausage and onions) are elaborate dishes found at any Portuguese restaurant. Not to be missed, especially, is Piri Piri. This spicy condiment originated in Africa and gives a little zing to a variety of foods, but is best with chicken in the mountain ranges of Monchique. The "national food" of Portugal is Bacalhau (dried, salted cod), for which the people claim they have a different recipe for every day of the year. Before each meal, the waiter will bring a couvert to the table - usually a plate of fresh bread, olives, or tins of pate. This is not free! You can send it back without a charge, though eating it is a good idea.
Gourmet
Restaurante Camané: A sizeable regional restaurant directly on the waterfront in Faro. The atmosphere is bright and cheery, with live bands playing almost every night, and a gorgeous outdoor terrace. The specialty is monkfish and fritada de peixe com arroz de lingueirão e choquinhos fritos (fried fish with rice). Avenida Nascente, Praia de Faro
Vila Joya: The only two-star Michelin restaurant in all of Portugal, chef Dieter Koschina's spectacular beachfront place enjoys a refined ambiance, and in the summer there is a terrace for alfresco dining. He buys lobster, crayfish and turbot from the local fishermen but brings truffles, goose liver and caviar from the best markets in Europe for his exquisite international dishes. Reservations required. Praia da Galé, 8200 Albufeira
Highly Recommended
Rúina: This excellent eatery is set in a beautifully restored 19th-century building in the whitewashed fishing town of Albufeira, tourist capital of the Algarve and home of Al-Buhar, the Castle on the Sea. The specialty is, of course, fresh seafood. A superb wine list and outside tables set aside for coffee offer a cozy atmosphere to take in some fado, the traditional Portuguese folk music. Rue Cais Herculano, Albufeira
Henrique Leis: Looking for all the world like a Swiss chalet inside and out, owner (and former Bocuse protégé) Henrique Leis' eponymous eatery has nevertheless earned a Michelin star for its sumptuous, modern international cuisine. Located just outside Almancil, the cozy restaurant serves gems like Piccata de Mignon de Veau and Crispy Breast of Guinea Fowl stuffed with Wild Mushrooms and Pata Negra Ham. The service is professional, and the wine list is extensive. Reservations required. Vale Formosa
Local Flair
Restaurant Portarade: When rowboats and fishing nets still decorated Lagos' old Ferragudo village square square 200 years ago, the restaurant is rumored to have been a smugglers warehouse, then a prison, and a brothel. Nowadays, the high rustic ceiling and traditional Portuguese décor create a lively atmosphere with evening folk dancing and a wide range of Portuguese and international cooking. Ferragudo Square, Lagos
Dois Irmãos: This is the oldest restaurant in Faro, serving superb regional dishes in an old small corner house (and its beautiful outdoor garden) located in the city square opposite the Cathedral. While specializing in delicious fresh fish, cataplanas, seafood, and lobster, as well as some meat dishes, owner Henrique Brazuna also keeps a wide variety of local wines on hand. Largo do Terreiro do Bispo 13-15
Romantic
Casa Velha Do Pescador: Situated in a quaint 1882 fisherman's cottage overlooking Benagil beach, is filled with antiques. The intimate and friendly restaurant has been featured in magazines for its specialty dishes like baby plaice filled with prawns and smoked salmon in béchamel sauce. Live classical guitar in the evenings make this the perfect spot for a special night in a tiny fishing village. Praia do Benagil, 8400-401 Carvoeiro
La Cigale: The location is dazzling -- overlooking the beach and the sea -- especially at sunset and later. And the food pretty much keeps up with the atmosphere. Seafood is the spcialty, and the tuna steak, shellfish rice, and rock lobster are at the top of the list. Prada Olhos d'Agua
Algarve is a series of beach towns and resorts, and the nightlife is never routine. There are bars and restaurants, night clubs and dance halls, plus the shows at any of the beautiful resorts. But rest assured, after a relaxing day at the beach, there is always plenty to do at night.
Mariners Pub and Restaurant: Inside a 400-year-old mansion in the port town of Portimão sits an English-style pub with a large dining room in checkered décor and granite walls. Since 1985, Mariners has held tourist functions boasting its special Mariners Mixed Drinks. (For an Irish bar, try The Man of Aran, not far away.)
Praia da Rocha: In the midst of sandy coves and protruding red rocks just south of Portimão is a strip of bars and clubs, including the new On the Rocks, which has a terrace that overlooks the beach. During the day it runs a great restaurant where kids are welcome. The Red Lion and the Shaker Bar are long-established watering holes on the strip, the former a popular English pub, and the latter a live music venue.
Jailhouse: If you find yourself venturing out onto the secluded beaches of Praia do Carvoeiro, you will find this venue packed with live music and entertainment every night of the week. Cocktail evenings are spent outside in the garden, and then inside for the party in what was Portugal's first registered discotheque, Sob e Desce (Up and Down). The Bar Refúgio and the Boneca Bar, 2 popular hotspots with locals and tourists alike, are also in the area.
Casino: In the Vilamoura resort complex is the Vilamoura Casino, complete with all the big game tables and hundreds of slot machines, plus a dancing floor show each night in the huge Casino Restaurant. There is also a movie theater playing English-language films.
Albufeira: Much of the town center in this tourist hub is pedestrianized, which works well for a night of pub-hopping along the dozens of bars that crowd the area. Around the Areias São João are many bars worth a peek and a drink, including Bar Amnésia, Bar Os Ascos, the Green Bar, and the King Bar.
Carnival (Mardi Gras): Spectacular costumes, huge floats, and exciting parades erupt all over Portugal during this pre-Lent party, but in Loulé the party is particularly electrifying, as it coincides with the Almond Gatherers' Fair. From all over the Algarve, people pour into the little town in high spirits and set off fireworks and have a lot fun. Loulé, February
Easter: Also a huge celebration across the country, the processions are sometimes a bit sober, as in Loulé, where a huge image of the Mãe Soberana (Virgin Mary) is carried somberly from the hilltop Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Piedade to the Parish Church outside of town. The pilgrimage back 2 weeks later, however, is much more cheerful. Loulé, April
Algarve Music Festival: Held in many towns throughout the area, this annual event features concerts and performances by leading Portuguese and international musicians, including the Gulbenkian Ballet. May
Festival Internacional da Cerveja: This energetic party is dedicated to beer, with traditional fado music and folk dancing spilling into the streets. Castelo de Silves, August
Festival do Marisco: The largest fishing port in Algarve hosts this annual party dedicated to seafood. Olhão, August
National Folklore Festival: Celebrating fado and traditional dance, musicians in colorful regional costumes from all over Portugal come to the Algarve for this 3-day event, in various towns and resorts. September
Rallye Casinos Do Algarve: Some of the world's top drivers and teams take to the roads to contest this "sprint" rally, part of the Portuguese Rally Championships. November
No matter what season, it's best to bring lightweight clothes and walking shoes, a rainproof windbreaker, and maybe a sweater, because it can get windy on the coast, even in the sun. For golfing, fishing, or scuba, there are many places to rent sports gear - don't waste your energy bringing it along.
We strongly advise that you confirm the following information and regard this only as a basic guide.
Sunstroke/Sunburn: It's hot out there, so use a generous amount of sunscreen and wear a hat.
Pickpockets: Although violent crime is rarely seen in Portugal, heavy tourist areas such as Algarve attract pickpockets, so it's a good idea to wear a money belt and leave valuables in the safe at the hotel. Cars are sometimes broken into, so don't leave valuables in the car. The national emergency phone number is 115.
Portuguese is the official language. It is similar to Spanish in written form but pronounced so differently it doesn't sound related. English is spoken at major hotels and resorts, but visits to smaller places will benefit from a phrasebook. It is much appreciated if the attempt is made to speak Portuguese, and inconsiderate to address anyone in Spanish.
The standard electrical current in Portugal is 220 volts/50 cycles AC. The plugs are continental two-pins, so both an adapter for the outlet and a transformer for the current will be needed to use appliances from the US.
We strongly recommend that you verify the following information and regard this only as a basic guide.
Entry: A valid passport is required for visits up to 60 days, but not a visa.
Portugal Customs: Visitors age 17 and older may enter Portugal with up to 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars, or 250 grams of tobacco; 2 liters of still wine; 1 liter of alcohol over 44 proof, or 2 liters of alcohol under 44 proof, 2 oz. perfume; 10 rolls of film; 2 cameras; one laptop or PC, and sporting equipment for personal use.
US Customs: You can reenter the US with $800 worth of duty-free merchandise. A flat rate of 10% is levied on the next $1,000 worth of purchases. You cannot bring back fresh food, but canned goods are permitted.
American Embassy: Av. das Forças Armadas, 1600-081 Lisboa, Apartado 4258, 1507 Lisboa Codex; Phone: 351-21-727-3300; Fax: 351-21-727-9109
Algarve Tourist Board: Av. 5 de Outubro, 8001-902 Faro, Portugal; Phone: 351-289-800-400; Fax: 351-289-800-489; email: rtalgarve@rtalgarve.pt
Portuguese Tourism Board (DGT): Avenida Antonio Augusto de Aguiar, 86, 1004 Lisboa Codex, Portugal; Phone: 351-357-50-86; Fax: 351-315-03-08
New York: Portuguese National Tourist Office, 590 Fifth Ave. 4th floor, New York, 10036-4704, phone 212-354-4403, fax 212-764-6137, email tourism@portugal.org
San Francisco: Portuguese Trade and Tourism Office, 88 Kearny Street, Suite 1770, San Francisco, CA 94108, phone 415-391-7080, fax 415-391-7147, email icepsf@portugal.org
Washington DC: Portuguese Trade and Tourism Office, 1900 L Street, Suite 310, Washington, DC 20036, phone 202-331-8222, fax 202-331-8236